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Make Beer > Fermenters of Revolution > Crannog Ales

Crannog: Organic Irish Ales & a Canadian Bog

Crannog is its founders’ vision of an Irish cultural lifestyle in practice. Brian and Rebecca MacIsaac built and operate Canada's only certified organic microbrewery (and one of only two farm breweries) mostly from scratch using their own hands. The ten-acre organic farm is situated in Sorrento, BC and includes an orchard, as well as a studio and gallery of traditional Irish art, architecture and craft.

The farm and brewery are designed to complement one another. The farm produces hops and fruits used in the beer, while the brewery’s by-products (what would otherwise be called waste products, but they are not wasted in this system!) are used for cultivation on the farm.

Spent brewing grain is fed to pigs and chickens, and composted to provide nutrients to the garden soil and hop yard. Spent yeast is heated and fed to the pigs and dairy cow, or added to the compost along with spent hops. Brewers yeast is well-known for its nutritional properties, and according to Brian and Rebecca the animals love it!

Their beers have included fresh raspberries, cherries, plums and crabapples grown right on the farm. "It's a brewmaster's dream to have such an abundance of fresh ingredients. I see all the raspberries out there and I just have to make beer with them," says Brian.

Eight varieties of hops are grown on site and are all fully certified organic, including Golding, Fuggles, Nuggett, Willamette, Bullion, Mt. Hood, Centennial and Cascade. They process them right on the farm in a dryer they designed themselves. Rebecca has also authored a book called How to Grow Small Scale Hops.

Fed by a well on the property, the water is hard, and is neither chlorinated nor fluoridated, giving their ales a genuine old-world flavor. Clean wastewater is re-used both within the brewery and for watering livestock and the gardens. They are working on a full water treatment system that will allow all the water from the brewery to be used directly on their gardens. (Is this operating now?)

The MacIsaac’s market garden feeds their own family, and the surplus is sold, providing additional revenue to support the farm. When they need something they can’t build or grow themselves, they try to source nearby in order to support their local economy.

Traditional Irish culture is the source of much of this farm-brewery’s inspiration. To begin with, the name crannóg is a Gaelic word for a dwelling built in a lake or bog. Resting either on stilts or on a man-made island, crannógs are found all over Scotland and Ireland. People built this way for safety as well as wise use of arable land. Island crannógs were often reached by causeways hidden just below the surface of the water, providing a safe but secret access. Such dwellings could house both a family and their livestock.

Brian further explains, “We at Crannóg Ales tend to emphasize the latter reason for building crannógs: the wise use of arable land. Much of the land in Scotland and Ireland is either extremely thin and rocky, or boggy ­ neither of which are great for growing food or grazing much livestock. It is only sensible, therefore, to build your home on land that cannot be used to grow your food, saving arable land for its best purpose. This is a lesson which contemporary Western societies - especially here in Canada - would do well to learn. If we continue to pave our best arable land, we will be unable to grow food. We cannot eat concrete, nor can we live off food from poorer countries. If we are going to have a sustainable future, we must protect our food lands, and the skills of our farmers.”

Following this traditional Celtic theme, the brewery is called a grúdlann and is old school all the way - no push button computer controls. The building and surrounding structures are adorned with Celtic art. The brewing system has a ten-hectolitre capacity, with a direct-fired kettle and open fermenters. Is it built on a crannog?

Crannóg is a draught-only brewery, providing both home-scale and full-size kegs meets customers' needs while eliminating many of the environmental concerns caused by extensive packaging.

Speaking of meeting customer needs, Crannog produces a range of unusual and award winning ales.

"I have a cultural imperative to brew only ales", says Brian. "Ales are a part of Ireland's history, and we don't often get to taste real Irish ales this side of the pond."

Some of the ales you’ll get to taste if you make the trek to Sorrento.

Beyond the Pale Ale
A robust and flavourful ale, with the aromas of Goldings and Pacific Gem hops and a firm, malty body with an exceptionally clean finish. This ale is very similar to a Northern bitter in balance and palate. The name comes from the time when the English settlers lived mostly in Dublin, in an area called "The Pale". The area outside the Pale was where the Irish lived... hence the phrase "beyond the pale".
4.7% alcohol 28BU

Red Branch Irish Ale
A rich, red ale in the Irish tradition, this ale glows from the addition of caramel and chocolate malts, with a delicate aroma of Pacific Gem and Fuggles hops. The name refers to a group of heroes in pre-Christian Ireland who fought for the O'Neill clan in Ulster.
5.1% alcohol 22BU

Back Hand of God Stout
Lean in body and powerful in flavor, Back Hand of God Stout (formerly known as "Black Wolfhound") has won three consumers' choice awards. This dry stout is easy to drink, rich and inviting. It is extraordinarily smooth and mildly hopped with a distinct coffee/chocolate presence.
5.2% alcohol 18BU
1st place "Best Beer" at the Okanagan Fest-of-Ale & At the Hops 2000, 2001

Hell's Kitchen
This rich Irish Red Ale is made with organic potatoes for an exceptionally smooth, rich body. It is rich in malt flavor, with just the right amount of hop finish. Hell's Kitchen (named after a famous Irish ghetto) incorporates its Irish roots, so to speak.

Old Mill Flax Ale
This is a mild ale with a lovely toasty aroma and a truly silky body. The flax oils contribute mildly to the flavor, but generate a wonderful mouthfeel. Watch how slowly bubbles rise in this unusual ale, and savor a truly mild ale.

(Artwork & photography: Brian and Rebecca MacIsaac)

And these little piggies ate spent brewing grain.

 


Rebecca wrote the guide How to Grow Small Scale Hops.

 


Brian's Irish-inspired artwork adorns the brewery and the beer labels.

 

 

 

 

 


At one time the English drew a border around Dublin to keep out the Irish. They called it The Pale.

 

 


Red Branch Irish Ale refers to a group of Irish warriors.

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