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Beer Frontiers
King
Pilsner, Bia Hoi, Snake Wine & the Sex Machine (Viet Nam part
two)
King
Pilsner, Bia Hoi, Snake Wine & the Sex Machine (Viet Nam part
one)
Hitting Rock Bottom in the
Nation's Capital
The
Beer Tombs of Egypt
Zulu
Brew Route
Beer
Pants & a Weighty Loaf (England & Ethiopia)
Gaia
Theory, Faggots in Gravy, & Cow Flatulence
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Ale Trail >
Adventures of a Beer Activist >
The
Beer Tombs of Egypt
by Chris O'Brien
Pyramid Ale
A
trip to the Great Pyramid and the Sphinx at Giza is the
usual way to begin a tour of Egypt. As a beer tourist,
my itinerary was no different. For it is inside these
pyramids that archeologists have discovered a wealth of
knowledge about ancient Egyptian beer.
The
earliest evidence of beer comes from Babylon in Sumeria,
modern day Iraq. Egyptian brewing seems to have followed
soon after, around 3,000 B.C.E.
The
Great Pyramid, as it is called, is believed to be the
largest ever constructed. It was built both on and by
beer. Pyramid laborers were served beer three times daily.
The Pharaohs buried inside these mysterious tombs were
sent on their way to the afterlife with copious supplies
of food and drink. Chief among them was beer. At least
five distinct styles have been documented.
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Beer
is depicted on the walls of the tombs, as are scenes of brewing and
baking. Beer and bread were considered aspects of the same job, since
beer was probably made partly from loaves of specially made bread.
Beer of the Gods
The legend of the Egyptian god Osiris explains that he taught humans
to brew beer. Since Pharaohs were considered both human and divine,
it seems appropriate then that they were sent off with large caches
of beer. Some tomb paintings depict guests at banquets drinking to
the point of throwing up and then being carried home.
As an Egyptian goddess of wine and beer Hathor was also called the
'Lady of Drunkenness', who also symbolized love and destruction. She
was the daughter of Ra, the supreme Sun God, and was a patron of dance
and music as well. Her worshipers got drunk on beer as part of their
spiritual practice. Tenenit was yet another ancient Egyptian goddess
of beer.
Dwarves Were Always Popular
Beer was the every day food-beverage of royalty and common folk alike.
To go without was considered a terrible impoverishment. According
to J.H. Breasted, in Ancient Records of Egypt, Part Four, a
Pharaoh named Tefnakhte was once forced to evade attackers for a prolonged
period of time. Upon his eventual surrender, he described the hardships
of his refuge: I have not sat in the beer-hall, nor has the harp
been played for me; but I have eaten bread in hunger, and I have drunk
water in thirst. The horror of it all.
The term 'beer-hall' was used interchangeably with the notion of a
convivial get-together, a place, or an occasion for beer drinking.
Though it was drunk routinely for nourishment, beer was also a catalyst
for exceptional banquets and good times. Entertainment during a beer-hall
consisted of storytelling, music of flutes, oboes and harps, singing
and recitation. Dancing and acrobatics were performed by scantily
dressed young women. And according to an account in Ancient Wine,
a book by Patrick McGovern, 'Dwarves were always popular,' as were
wrestlers.
Herodotus, considered the world's first historian, described such
a scene in his Histories II:
When they have finished eating, a man bears round a wooden figure
of a dead body in a coffin, made as like the reality as may be both
by painting and carving, and measuring about a cubit or two cubits
each way; and this he shows to each of those who are drinking together,
saying: "When thou lookest upon this, drink and be merry, for
thou shalt be such as this when thou art dead." Thus they do
at their carousals.
An Unknown Art
Unfortunately, the materials used
to brew in these ancient times were quite degradable, so the archeological
record of Egpyt's breweries is scant. One of the oldest and best-attested
probable breweries is in the modern city of Kom Al-Ahmar, known by
the Greeks as Hierakonpolis, in ancient Egyptian called Nekhen, named
after Nekheny the Falcon god, who was an earlier form of Horus. The
site dates to 5,000 years ago, according to Barry Kemp, an Egyptologist
at the University of Cambridge.
At the site, Kemp's team found large, well-heated conical vats that
were encrusted on the inside with a cereal-based residue. The vats
appeared to have been permanent structures, indicating a large-scale
operation, and their shape suggests that they held liquid. Combined
with anthropological evidence, the experts agree that this was beer.
Another ancient brewery may be el-Amarna, along the Nile in middle
Egypt. The city was the capital of ancient Egypt nearly 3,500 years
ago, during the reign of King Tutankhamen's father, Akhenaton. The
archaeological site is located in what is thought to be the Sun Temple
of Nefertiti, Akhenaton's wife. Kemp and his colleagues found a complex
of rooms that had been used for cereal processing. Ovens, charred
grains, jars, and larger vessels indicate that the rooms were either
a brewery or a bakery - or perhaps both.
"No piece of equipment survives that can be unequivocally linked
to brewing," says Delwen Samuel, an archaeobotanist at University
College London, who studied the el-Amarna site with Kemp. "Bread
and beer were staples of the ancient Egyptians, so it's a matter of
inference." However, writing and drawings from the site tip the
scale toward breweries, she says.
More evidence suggests that one very likely tipple of the ancients
was a type of grog, a mixture of beer, wine and mead. This conclusion
is part of a controversial debate between wine advocates and beer
drinkers. Imported wine, say the former, was clearly the beverage
of the sophisticated elite. They were surprised when the evidence
showed that what they all assumed was wine, was actually a beer that
may have had some wine mixed in with it, possibly being used as a
yeast starter.
Brew Like an Egyptian
Emmer wheat, though, was the fermentable grain of choice, as it grew
in abundance on the banks of the Nile. Modern brewers have made admirable
attempts to recreate the Egyptian grog. Scottish and Newcastle created
King
Tut Ale by using residue found in the tomb of King Tutankhamen.
Anchor Brewing has formulated experimental
Sumerian beers, which may have been similar to Egyptian ales.
Kirin has done extensive research on ancient Egyptian brewing and
has published a very helpful website for anyone interested in learning
how
to make an ancient Egyptian homebrew.
Beer loaves were made from a richly yeasted dough. This dough was
lightly baked and the resulting bread was crumbled and strained through
a sieve with water. Ingredients like dates or extra yeast might have
been added. The dissolved mixture was fermented in large vats and
then the liquid was decanted into jars which were sealed for storage
or transport.
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All
photos: Copyright 2005 Christopher Mark O'Brien, unless otherwise
noted.

This mural inside the tomb of Hathor depicts a beer offering to
the
'Lady of Drunkenness.'
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The Cairo Museum features a display case filled with ancient statues
of brewers like this one, titled "Woman brewing and straining beer." |

This carving of a beer offering in the tomb of Ramses II is an example
of a scene I saw hundreds of times during my tour of tombs.

Another beer offering? Or perhaps this painting depicts a step in
the straining process. The ancients may know, but I sure as hell don't. |
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